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10. RELOADING MANUAL(S): This is VERY important. It is vital for any reloader, especially a beginner, to own and read a quality reloading manual. It is actually beneficial to own at least two, in order to compare load data from one to the other. The reloading manual will generally be used to look up load data for your caliber including powder charge, overall cartridge length, case trim length, etc. Reloading manuals are also full of various other useful pieces of information. It is generally a good idea to cross reference load data from at least two different manuals before beginning the process of reloading. BEFORE YOU UNBOX YOUR EQUIPMENT AND SET UP YOUR BENCH, READ YOUR RELOADING MANUAL FROM COVER TO COVER.
11. Eye protection: It's a good idea to wear safety glasses while reloading. Primers can ignite if handled improperly, so why not keep your eyes protected? You only have two, ya know?
B. The Reloading Process: Ok, so you have your equipment. You've READ YOUR MANUAL, and you're ready to start. The process isn't rocket science. It does require you to pay attention to what you're doing, however. A mistake at the bench can lead to disaster at the range if you don't take your time and do things correctly. Reloading is a fun and enjoyable hobby, but only when done safely. Ready to begin? Let's go.
Inspect and Clean Brass: So, you're home from the range with a bag full of fired, dirty brass. First, inspect the cases for any cracks, large dents, or splits. If you find cases with any of these flaws, pitch them in a scrap bucket. Put the rest of them in your tumbler with the cleaning media of your choice, turn on the tumbler, and do something else for a few hours. Hey, you could go clean your guns. After the brass is clean, remove it from the tumbler and inspect it again. It is easier to spot cracks, etc. on clean brass.
Deprime & Resize Cases: For this step, you'll be using the resizing/depriming die and your reloading press. If you're working with bottleneck cases, you'll need to lubricate the cases first. Adjust the die according to the manufacturer's directions, insert the rim of the case onto the shellholder of your press, and lower the handle, raising the case into the die. This step will remove the spent primer and resize the case to the proper spec dimensions.
Measure & Trim, Deburr & Chamfer: This step generally only applies to rifle brass, although some will tell you to trim pistol brass as well. Some brass can become longer than the maximum case length, usually after a few firings. In your reloading manual, you will find the minimum, maximum, and "trim-to" case lengths listed for your particular cartridge. Measure your cases, setting aside any that are beyond the trim-to length. Set up your trimmer per the instructions, and trim those cases to length. You will then need to deburr the trimmed cases using your selected deburring tool.
Prime The Cases: A new primer must now be inserted into the primer pocket. This is usually accomplished on the press, in slightly different ways depending on the press manufacturer. The specifics of this step will vary depending on your press, so read the instructions. Just please, be careful with primers. They are explosive. Do not hit them. Do not insert a primer into a case upside down. And just in case you slip up and make a mistake while priming your cases, wear your eye protection!! After priming, ensure your primers are seated properly by running your finger over them and checking that the primer doesn't stick up above the level of the primer pocket. The primer should be seated flush with the top of the pocket or even just slightly below.
There are four main types of primers: Large Rifle, Small Rifle, Large Pistol, and Small Pistol. There are also "magnum" variations of these. Your reloading manual will list the correct primer for your load.
Charge the Cases: In this step, you will be adding a carefully measured and weighed powder charge into the case. Your reloading manual will list a start charge and a max charge for the bullet you have chosen to use. ALWAYS START LOW AND WORK YOUR WAY UP. NEVER start with the max charge listed in your manual. Once you've found the specified powder charge, follow the instructions that came with your powder measure, and set it to dispense the proper weight of powder, which you must verify by using your powder scale. I generally like to, once I have my powder measure dispensing the correct charge weight, dispense ten charges into the scale pan, weigh it, and divide that number by ten. If it works out to the desired charge weight for my load, I know my powder measure is throwing a consistent charge. It is generally a good rule of thumb to weigh every tenth charge or so while you're charging your cases as well, just to ensure that you are getting a consistent charge weight. If reloading rifle ammo for precision accuracy, it may be a good idea to weigh EVERY charge for the utmost consistency. For plinking or general target shooting ammo, weighing every charge generally isn't necessary.
Seat the Bullet: In this step, you will be using your bullet seating die on your press to insert a bullet into the case mouth, thus completing a reloaded round. Find the suggested OAL (overall length) for your cartridge/bullet combination if your manual. This is your goal length. You can play around with this measurement later in the quest for accuracy, but start with the suggested length for now. Minimum and maximum overall length will also be listed. Insert the bullet seating die into the press according to the manufacturer's directions. Then back out the seating adjustment almost all the way. Raise the case and bullet into the die, and turn the bullet seating adjustment inward until you feel contact with the bullet. Lower the ram, and turn the adjustment knob in some more. Raise the ram again. This will partially seat the bullet. Measure the length of the cartridge with your calipers (it should be too long at this point). Turn the adjustment in some more, raise the ram, and measure the cartridge. Repeat this process until the desired OAL has been achieved. You have now reloaded a complete round of ammunition.
Crimp the Bullet: On most handgun ammo, it is necessary to put a crimp around the bullet in order to remove the flaring on the case mouth and ensure proper chambering in your firearm. Your die set should include a crimp die. Set it up per the instructions. The measurement of the case mouth around the bullet can be found in your manual. Do not overcrimp your rounds. Most rifle ammunition does not need to be crimped. However, if you are using a bullet with a cannelure, it is a good idea to crimp the case mouth into this cannelure, or crimp groove. This groove holds the bullet in place, making it more difficult to dislodge or "set back" into the case. Rifle bullets without this cannelure are held in by neck tension, and generally stay in place just fine for most all applications.