The Road from Vung Tau to Saigon. Memories of Travelling in Vietnam

Chapter 1about three feet wide, was still passable and we
I had to go into Saigon on private business. Acrossed over the first destroyed part of the
number of Decca people had private businessbridge. I then stopped and looked around me.
concerns which I may deal with later. I took PBThere was the wreckage of one of these three
along as interpreter. I hired a car and chauffeur.wheeled vehicles. I couldn't see the driver, perhaps
We left Vung Tau early in the morning, passedhe had fallen down below. I didn't look though, it
through Baria with no trouble and had gone a fewwas not the moment for idle curiosity. I looked to
miles further on when we heard an explosion upmy left and saw a rather fat peasant woman. I
ahead. It was a beautiful day, after a number ofcouldn't see her face. Her body was in a most
years one gets used to the nightly crump, crumpstrange posture. Part of my own survival
of artillery, one hopefully learns to differentiatemechanism kicked in and I thought, "What a
the sounds of outgoing and incoming shells,strange manner in which to pray". It was, though,
mortars or rockets, machine gun fire etc. Onethe eternal prayer of death. This was one of the
learns to live with it. To have one's knee jerk forshades of fear I have talked about earlier, an
years after the war every time a car backfiredescape from reality. The body goes calmly
or one heard a loud bang was for later. Wethrough all the actions required of it, but the mind
pushed on and found a large crater in the road.blankets out the truth. I looked to my right and
As we were able to drive around it and theresaw a young girl sleeping. She must have been
were no destroyed vehicles we were not undulyabout twelve years old. A very beautiful face,
concerned. There was no traffic in either directionuntroubled in its sleep. My eyes travelled down her
though.body and I saw her guts hanging out onto the
A few miles later we arrived at a large village.surface of the bridge, her stomach ripped open.
There seemed to be a lot of activity, traffic hadHers was the final eternal sleep of death.
piled up, not moving in either direction. QuestionsI looked around. Not a sound. No movement.
were asked about what had happened on theNothing. I looked up and high in the sky I saw a
road we had just come along, and we werespotter plane. So high it might have been an eagle.
informed that a bridge had been blown up ahead.I looked at PB, she remained very calm and
Like any loyal subject of Her Britannic Majesty, Iwithout a word we continued. PB was always
decided it was a good moment for a tea breakvery brave. The fact that we might have been
and we duly found a tea house where wenutty didn't occur either. There is a Vietnamese
discussed the situation, in the manner of peoplephrase 'dien cai dau' again with no accents, which
deciding, due to cloudy weather ahead, if theyAmericanised was 'dinkydow' which might have
should continue with their picnic or not.been appropriate. It means crazy.
PB was North Vietnamese and they are a veryWe continued on for a half mile or so, feeling
steady people. We decided to abandon the carvery exposed, when I saw a movement to my
and driver, which could not continue anywayleft. A patrol of Regional Force soldiers was
because of the blown bridge, and continue on footadvancing quickly along the drainage ditch beside
and try to pick up transport further on.the road. They were led by an ashen faced
Chapter 2officer, his right arm held out in front of him
We came to the end of the village and left peopleholding a Colt .45, his shaking hand all too visible.
and cover behind us. The road was raised aboveHe did not give us a glance. He looked how I
the surrounding rice paddies. There was not ainwardly felt. We continued on until we came
cloud in the sky, not a sound to be heard. Aacross a lone three wheeled taxi vehicle, which
beautiful day for a young couple to be walkingfor an exhorbitant fee took us to the next village
along a quiet country road.where we found transport to take us to Saigon.
We came to the destroyed bridge. One span,